Ginger Cultivation Basics

Ginger is an important spice crop of the world .Its scientific name is Zingiber officinale.Its a valuable cash crop and plays an important role in aurvedic medicines in India .It has been used for cleaning body through perspiration,to calm down nausea,and to stimulate the appetite.Ginger tea is used as carminative and in the symptomatic treatment of colds.Ginger contains gingerol, an oleo resin that accounts for the characteristic aroma and therapeutic properties.Components of gingerol posses beneficial properties for the treatment of poor digestion,heart burn,vomiting and preventing motion sickness.

 

Climate and soil

Ginger requires tropical,subtropical and humid climate for its commercial production.It can be successfully grown to an altitude of 1500mt.A well distributed rainfall during growing season and dry season during the land preparation as well as before harvesting is required for good growth and

yield of the crop. Dry weather with a temperature range of 28-30 degree Centigrade for about a month before harvesting is ideal . High humidity throughout the crop period is necessary. Ginger prefers good garden soil, rich in humus, light, loose, friable, well drained and of at least 30 cm depth. Rhizome growth is better on slightly acidic soil.

Varieties

Most promising varieties of ginger are Himgiri,Varad,surbhi,suruchi,Ernas,Nadia,Maran,Rio de jenerio and China.

Planting

In northern India, planting of Ginger is done on the onset of monsoon. In Eastern India planting is done in the month of march.The method of land preparation depends on the soil and climatic conditions.Usually beds of 1.0 mt width ,15 cm height, and 6-7 metre in length with 30 cm wide channels between beds are made. Ginger is universally propagated from cutting of Rhizome known as bits. A direct relationship has been established between size of planting material and final yield. Bits should be 3-5cm in the length, 15- 20gm in weight and at least one sound bud .A seed rate of 15-20 Quintal per hectare is considered to be optimum for planting. Before planting bits should be treated with fungicide like carbendazim and mancozeb by dissolving the 30 gm of powder in 15 litres of water as a safeguard against soft rot and to induce early sprouting.The spacing for planting of the ginger should be kept 25-45 cm between rows and 15-20 cm between plants.

Manures and Fertilizers

Well rotten FYM or compost at the rate of 25-30 ton/hectare should be applied at the time of planting. The amount of inorganic fertilizer depend upon the fertility of the soil and organic manure used. It ranges between 100-120 kg nitrogen, 75-80 kg of phosphorus and 100 -120 kg of Murat of potash.It is advisable to add 20-25 kg of elemental sulphur at the time of land preparation to correct the deficiency of sulphur which is increasing in Indian soils. Half of nitrogen and entire quantity of phosphorus and Murat of potash should be given as basal.Rest of the nitrogen should be split in two doses as top dressing at the 45 and 90 days after planting.

Shade and mulching

One row of maize in every inter row space of ginger with maintenance of 100% maize population and application of additional fertilizer to maize additional yield of ginger can beobtained. Mulching is essential as it enhances sprouting ,increase infiltration and organic matter .

First mulching should be done at the time of planting with quick rotting green leaves at the rate of 10-12 t/hectare or with dry leaves at the rate 5-6 t/hectare.

Water management

The crop raised in the month of April-May needs 2-4 initial watering at an interval of 7 days depending upon the soil types. After this the crop receives monsoon rain and comes up well till end of September . Subsequently the crop has to be given watering commencing from middle of October and the end of December at 15 days intervals. In ginger cultivation sprouting, rhizome initiation and rhizome development are critical stages of irrigation.

Weed management

Two weeding are generally given to the ginger crop.First weeding should be done just before the second mulching. It is repeated depending on the intensity of the weed growth or at an interval of 45-60 days. During hoeing , every care should be taken so that the rhizomes should not be disturbed, injured or exposed.

Plant Protection

To control shoot borer and leaf roller the spray of indoxacarb @ of 10 ml per 15 litre of water or novaluron@ of 10 ml per 15 litre of water is very effective if sprayed at 15 days interval. Rhizome scale insects destroys rhizome and it can be controlled by dipping the seed rhizome in quinalphos by dissolving 1 ml in 1 litre of water .To avoid rhizome rot , good drainage and treatment of the seed rhizome with dissolving 3 gm of combination of carbendazim and mancozeb ( readily available in the market) in 1 litre of water for nearly 30 minutes, before storage should be done. Bacterial wilt which causes milky ooze as gentle pressing of rhizomes and can be effectively controlled by treating the seed rhizome with dissolving 2 gm of streptocycln in 1 litre of water for 30 minutes.

Harvesting and yield

For fresh Ginger, the crop should be harvested before attaining the full maturity means when rhizomes are still tender, low in pungency and fiber content, usually from fifth month onwards after planting. Harvesting for the preserved ginger should be done after 5-7 months of planting while harvest for dried spices and oil is best at full maturity. i.e between 8-9 months after planting when leaves start yellowing. Rhizomes to be used for planting material should be harvested until the leaves become completely dry. After digging the rhizomes should be treated with fungicide like mancozeb @3-4 gm per litre of water , dried in shade , and stored in pits covered with 20 cm layer of sand alternating every 30 cm layer of rhizomes. These pits should be dug under a thatched roof to protect the rhizomes from rain, water and direct sun. Average yield varies from 12-15 tons per hectare. However recovery of dry ginger varies from 20-22%.

Washing and drying

After harvest, the fibrous roots attached to the rhizome should be trimmed off and soil is removed by washing. Rhizomes should be soaked in water overnight and then cleaned. The skin can be removed by scrapping with the correct instrument. Peeling or scraping reduces, drying time, thus minimizes mold growth and fermentation. However scraping process tends to remove some of the oils constituents which are more concentrated in the peel. By removing the outside Corky skin the fiber content also decreases. After scrapping, the rhizomes should be sun dried for a week with frequent turning and well rubbed by hand to remove the outer skin. This is called as the unbleached ginger . The peeled rhizomes should be repeatedly immersed in 2% lime solution for 6 hours and allowed to dry in the sun for 10 days while rhizome receive a uniform coating of lime and moisture content should be 8-10%. This is called as bleached ginger which has improved appearance with light bright colour.

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The North American Landscape Kew at British Museum

Where: British Museum

Type: temporary exhibition

The British Museum is playing host to Kew Garden’s ‘North American Landscape’ from 10^th May to 25 November 2012.

The main motive of the temporary garden is to strengthen the cultural understanding of geographical landscapes around the world and support biodiversity conservation. It draws attention to botanical diversity and the threats faced by the north American plants due to the destruction of the natural habitat.

The garden itself is a very nicely landscaped temporary construction, with a great wealth of flowers, shrubs and trees. A little wooden bridge gives access to the centre of the garden and each planting has an educative text. The garden is visited by the hundreds of visitors to the British Museum and people sit around the edge to enjoy a little corner of peace and relaxation in the middle of a busy, urban and cultural setting in the centre of London.

The project is a collaborative partnership between Kew Gardens and the British Museum, the London Borough of Camden, Botanical organisations and the universities across the United Sates. The project is financed by American Express is the financial supporter of the garden. The ‘Landform Consultant’ is behind the beautiful design and construction of Landscape.

Geffrye Museum & Garden

Where: Geffrye Museum

Type: Museum garden, permanent

Geffrye Museum is one of Hackney’s nicest and well maintained museum, hostings rooms based on interior design across the ages. The museum has a private garden maintained as a herb garden and for educational purposes. Recent development of the garden also provided an opportunity to explore the links between the domestic interiors and gardens. Its designs was inspired by a historical study of middle class gardens in Victorian times.

Photos © Gavin Gardiner on LondonHolic


The museum and its garden are maintained by the Geffrye Museum Trust and London County Council with funding from Department for Culture, Media and Sports (DCMS). The garden conducts various activities, educational events in gardening and horticulture.

Kings Cross Skip Garden

Where: Kings Cross Central (development)

Type: Temporary community garden

Global Generation, a local charity that works in educating young people (not just in gardening) has taken base on the Kings Cross regeneration site. Their innovative approach to overcoming the ‘temporary’ feature of the project was to build the garden elements in skips! This not only gives them the capacity to relocate if necessary but also gives them a strong and unparalleled identity.

Everything in the Skip garden is recycled and built by the charity Global Generation with the great support of the local community.

Dalston Eastern Curve

Where: Dalston Junction

Type: Temporary community garden

This garden provides learning and skills development in horticulture as well as an atmosphere where the local community feels connected with and can come together in a natural environment.

It is by all standards a fantastic example of a pro-active community coming together to maintain a space which serves them.

The project started as the Dalston Mill (2010), designed by EXYZT architects on the site of the old railway line. This was such a great success that the local groups, not least Open Dalston took ownership of it and it became the Eastern Curve. A temporary project, it is source of many local happening, such as gardening courses and community based events.

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Islamic Gardens – They Could Build A Green Muslim Movement

By Arwa Aburawa, Green Prophet

Can gardens really help promote environmentally friendly behaviour amongst the Muslim community? Mark Bryant says they can

There’s nothing like being with nature to help clear your mind and when the weather is as lovely as it has been recently, who can resist spending a couple of hours in the garden? But the humble garden should not be overlooked. According to researcher in the uk, the garden can be a powerful tool in inspiring more climate-aware behaviours.

Following my trip to Andalucia and introduction to some stunning Islamic gardens, I looked into the role gardens can play in promoting environmentally-friendly behaviour. I instantly stumbled across a little piece of research by Mark Bryant and Sophie Gilliat-Ray based in the UK who state that “Gardens built reflecting Islamic traditions have been shown to have the potential to educate and inform people about environmental issues.” I caught up with Mark Bryant to find out more about this research and the green Muslim community.

Aburawa: Why do gardens play an important role in Islam and Muslim culture?

Bryant: There are some 166 references to gardens in the Qur’an. These include references to earthly gardens which resemble an oasis or palm gardens found in the Middle East today. Both Eden and Paradise are described in terms of a garden and ‘jannah’ means both garden and paradise in Arabic.

This love for the garden is reflected in the traditions of Muslim poetry, literature and carpet design. And much of what is described as Arabesque design incorporates both realistic and stylised plant forms. In terms of the environment, in addition to respecting nature as part of creation many Muslims regard themselves as having been entrusted with the task of acting as khalifah, or vice-regents, of earth. ‘Later We made you their successors in the land, to see how you would behave’ (Surah 10.14).

Aburawa: The research that you carried out on Islamic gardens in the UK showed that Islamic gardens didn’t generally deal with environmental issues and sustainability. Do you think that this could change in the future?

Bryant: I feel it is important to draw a distinction here between the traditional formal Islamic gardens and gardens reflecting Islamic traditions. The traditional Islamic garden is a specific form consisting of specific formal elements. On the other hand gardens reflecting Islamic traditions can include gardens which incorporate Islamic influences outside of those found in the traditional form such as good Islamic environmental ethical practice.

Whilst it is true that traditional Islamic gardens were not necessarily concerned with issues such as biodiversity, conservation and sustainability it can be argued that they demonstrated the importance of the natural world in Islam. If we use the definition of gardens reflecting Islamic traditions we find examples of gardens being built using Islamically inspired environmentally-friendly practice.

For example the community garden run by Wapping Woman’s Centre in Tower Hamlets has had a huge impact on changing people’s behaviour around recycling, composting and a general respect for the environment.

As well as research into Islamic gardens, you have looked into the scale of environmental concern British Muslims have. What kind of state did you find the environmental movement amongst British Muslims in the UK?

I think the following quote from the conclusion of the paper we wrote for the Journal for the Study of Religion, Nature and Culture (Are British Muslims ‘Green’? An Overview of Environmental Activism among Muslims in Britain.) best answers this question..

So, are British Muslims ‘green’? The answer is both ‘yes’ and ‘no’. Visit nearly any inner-city area in Britain with a large Muslim population and it is evident that the messages of conservation and environmental stewardship that Muslim environmentalists derive from the Qur’an and Hadith are not reflected in the actual behaviour of many British Muslims. Unkempt urban areas often reflect socio-economic deprivation and a lack of engagement in activities that promote environmental conservation. On the other hand, the findings of our research also demonstrate the emergence of a new generation of British Muslim environmental activists who are using their energy and knowledge to argue that being a ‘good Muslim’ must involve environmental responsibility.

In the Middle East, there are real concerns about the growing scarcity of water. As such, do you think it is justifiable to be building gardens which rely heavily on water?

Whilst I am aware of plans for gardens in the Middle East that are environmentally irresponsible this need not be the case. In fact, within the area of water management, Islamically inspired gardens have the potential to stand as examples of traditional and current good practice in water management. Traditional Islamic gardens have historically served as showcases for effective water management in water poor areas – this was particularly the case in gardens in Iran. The palmerals of Elche in Spain are fed by an 800year old water management system developed by the Moors. These systems were in turn studied by French and British engineers to be used in their colonies in Africa.

In September 2011, the tenth International Permaculture Conference and Convergence, IPC10, which was held in Jordan around the theme of water. During the conference, projects in the Jordan Valley and around the Dead Sea using permaculture and Islamic environmentally inspired designs were highlighted as a positive response to the growing water crisis in the region.

So the Islamic environmental ethic works very well with the currently growing Permaculture movement. In addition many of the traditional methods of water management used in the Middle East represent good examples of effective Permaculture design. Finally, I think there is potential for palm gardens to be used as an alternative to less sustainable green spaces currently being built in the region.

: The Islamic gardens research was commissioned by BGCI and was supported by the Islam UK Centre at Cardiff University.

Source: Green Prophet

Published on" 05/06/2012

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Gardening for busy people

By Bunny Guinness, Telegraph

While some may be getting ready for the Olympics, I am checking over my bamboo canes, sharpening my saw and sorting my hurdles. Success on the sports field takes hard work, and it’s the same in the garden. For those with full-time jobs, children and other commitments, a bit more skill is needed to get results. With a little help from experts such as Charles Dowding and Kim Wilde, here is my guide to spring gardening for busy people:

THE VEGETABLE PLOT

Raised beds

Charles Dowding is a professional vegetable grower. Like me, he uses the “No Dig” technique and finds it saves time and gives great yields. I never dig my veg (and rarely/ever ornamental borders) but just pile organic matter on (spent mushroom, garden compost) and the soil structure is brilliant.

If you have just a couple of raised beds and have extra space, then make another two (about 2.2m x 1.2m/7ft x 4ft) perhaps from old scaffold boards, and form a mini potager. Site them close to the house, so that you can have a quick potter, post-breakfast, to slay a stray weed and eye up what is ready for supper at the same time. Even if you’re suited and shod for the office, raised beds will allow you to reach everything without getting mulched yourself. Charles’s new book Vegetable Course (Frances Lincoln) is a must for the time-stretched.

Sowing and picking:

Charles recommends pick-and-come-again instead of cut-and-come for salads. Careful, weekly picking of salad plants’ outer leaves enables them to live longer, so you need to sow less often. “I have been practising it for nine years on all kinds of salad, including pea shoots and lettuce varieties such as Little Gem,” says Charles. “The same plants give leaves for 10 or 12 weeks, saving much time on sowing and clearing. For lettuce just two sowings – now and one in June – can give you leaves all the time from May to early autumn.”

Some plants require less attention than others, such as courgettes (try Defender), beetroot and chard (Fantasy F1, which is more spinach-like). But you rarely have something for nothing, and these plants need regular picking over to keep them in top condition. Other vegetables can be picked in a way that prolongs their productive life, to reduce time spent on sowing and raising new plants. Outer leaves twisted off spinach keeps it producing for longer than plants cut across the top. Beetroot grown in clumps, with just the larger ones twisted out when ready, allows the remaining roots to swell up. The same goes for carrots.

Have pots of herbs like thyme, lovage, chervil, parsley, lemon verbena and sage near the kitchen door so you can cut quicker than you can find the pack of the dried version.

BORDERS

Getting cottage garden borders to perform well in dry conditions takes a bit of juggling.
Firstly tackle the weeds, don’t plant anything new until you have outed perennial weeds. For this I would use glyphosate. No weeds must be allowed to seed (or even flower), so regular hoeing and/or the application of a thick mulch will sort this out. No digging allowed.

Get to know your weeds so you recognise them when small. Mulching (50mm/2in of coarse mulch) applied after watering is key. Use newspapers covered with copious grass cuttings to mulch wilder areas such as under new hedges.

Kim Wilde has an exceptionally busy and high-profile singing career, yet is an avid gardener. Here are her top tips for having great borders with less time:

“Without doubt, one of the most time-consuming activities in the garden is weeding. If planting an area for the first time, consider the use of landscape fabric (MyPex). Plants have a chance to establish and grow without weeds getting too much of a look in. Choose low maintenance, fast-growing herbaceous plants like ground-cover geraniums or Alchemilla mollis in areas where bulbs like tulips or alliums are to grow in the border, and landscape fabric is not an option. I grow G. macrorrhizum, and G x magnificum. These plants can be divided every few years, spread around the garden or given as Easter gifts.” Kim adds: “Before embarking on a love affair with your chosen plant, spend a few minutes researching its optimum growing conditions, i.e. likes a warm sunny sight, or prefers a damp shady spot. Giving your plant its ideal growing conditions will save you time and money in the long term.”

If you are short of time, having many different types of plants in your borders takes a lot more management than a few really generous clumps of the same plants. These bigger clumps need a good season of interest to work.

Helen Dillon, the gardening author and broadcaster, has a huge knowledge of plants and her garden in Dublin (dillongarden.com) is inspirational. Helen raves about cottage garden flowers, such as the mauve honesty, which produces beautiful, luminous flowers in spring, and then sets seed for next year. If you tend them and deadhead they perform for far longer (May-July is not unusual).

The unusual perennial honesty, Lunaria rediviva, is a “Helen gem”. This has white flowers and large, pointy oval leaves. It gets to a metre (3ft) tall and has wonderful evening scent from its white flowers. The only place I have seen it for sale is at Jelitto Seeds (jelitto.com), which specialises in wholesale perennial seeds. A plant Helen rates for later interest is Briza maxima (giant quaking grass). Sow it now and it will flower in August and last to December with its airy 3ft stems. Sow it again in August and it will flower next May.

Sweet rocket (Hesperis matronalis) and the perennial stock, Matthiola incana, with its useful, ever-grey leaves and scented flowers, are also her cottage garden musts.

LAWNS

The lawn is high input. A designed lawn, rather than just being the leftover space after you snatched bits for borders, paving and paths, makes a massive difference. A hard-working, green mown surface is a more realistic title than “lawn”. Leaving the wilder parts slightly longer and cutting and collecting at as long intervals as the machine will manage (maybe three weeks), but mowing paths through, gives a more romantic look. Mulch mowers (such as the John Deere JS63V) remove the need to collect, and help with drought. Longer meadows, left until early July for their first cut, look stunning in late spring but can get tatty later. But if these areas are limited to defined swathes, it makes them visually far more acceptable later on.

Tips:

- Do not feed grass if you have little tending time
- Cut a bit longer to encourage thymes, self-heal and other herbs so the area will stay greener in drought
- Spot-treat coarser weeds you do not like, such as dandelions, with selective lawn weed killer (I spot treat broadleaved weeds such as dandelions and dock with Verdone)
- Remove fiddly bits and replace with gravel, ground cover or easy planting
- Do not skimp on a mower but invest in one that is a joy to use (I love my Hayter)

Source: Telegraph

Published on: 04/01/2012

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Mushroom Farming: The Fungal Goldmine

By Muhammad Zeeshan Farid & Dr Amjad Farooq

A global trend in agriculture has been a shift away from simple systems that rely on traditional crops, to those that increasingly seek new varieties of plants that cater to advanced dietary needs. To this end, scientists and growers have recommended several new crops that can augment the spectrum of agricultural produce.

Mushrooms, known locally as “khumbi”, are among this emerging cropping system. Mushrooms are essentially fungi, a group of organisms distinct from plants, animals and bacteria. They convert inedible plant waste into palatable food, which is savoured due to its biting texture and flavour. They form a complete diet as mushrooms contain essential vitamins and minerals, and are the best substitute for protein. They also contain traces of carbohydrates and fat.

Dr Amjad Farooq works as an assistant professor at the Department of Horticulture of the PMAS-Arid Agriculture University, Rawalpindi. He explains that, according to estimates, there are more than 1,500 types of mushrooms found on planet earth – some of them are edible, but others are poisonous. The four most popular types are the button or European mushroom, the Japanese mushroom, the Chinese mushroom and the oyster mushroom. The best quality mushrooms available in Pakistan are the oyster mushroom, the white mushroom, the golden oyster mushroom, the phoenix (grey) oyster mushroom and the pink oyster mushroom. These strains grow all over the country, and are available usually after the monsoon season.

Mushrooms can be cultivated between October and March. Cultivation does not require land and can be grown in small houses and huts as a part-time activity. Mushroom cultivation does not require full time-labour, and all family members can look after different operations easily. There are two modes of propagation for a mushroom crop: open-air field cultivation and controlled cultivation.

After seven days of cultivation, small pin-like heads emerge from the mushroom, which turn into more mushrooms after three to five days. Branches which grow five to seven inches long, called flushes, are removed from the plants and dried. These can be used in cooking, or can be sold in the market. Flushes keep regenerating from the plant after every ten days of the removal of old ones: the cycle is very short, and as a result, highly productive.

“A single flush or branch of mushroom can yield more than half a kilogramme (kg) of edible food after each week for three months,” says Dr Muhammad Nadeem, from the Institute of Horticultural Sciences, University of Agriculture Faisalabad (UAF).

Thus, 100 beds of mushroom can yield more than 120kg of mushrooms a week. At the rate of Rs150 per kg, they can generate a lump sum profit of Rs18,000 a week, or Rs72,000 in a month. Dr Nadeem says the “production of mushrooms touches approximately 1.5 million tons in the world, while about 90 tons of mushrooms are exported to Europe from Pakistan every year.”

Oyster mushrooms currently sell for around $6 a pound in the US. A growing area of around 200 square feet can produce 800 pounds per crop; or 5,000 pounds of mushrooms per year. This is worth almost $30,000 at current prices. It’s clear that growing oyster mushrooms for profit is a great way to make some extra cash.

However, it should be kept in mind that, given the large variety of poisonous strains of mushrooms, spawn should be developed only under the supervision of experts. It is available at the UAF, the National Institute of Biotechnology and Genetic Engineering, the Ayub Agricultural Research Institute and other government research stations.

Farmers who wish to cultivate mushrooms should book spawn well before the cultivation season, because it may not be readily available during the peak demand period. The UAF laboratory has developed some thermo-tolerant strains of the most widely grown button mushroom (Agaricus bisporus) and the oyster mushroom (Pleurotus cystidiosus).

As basic training is required for profitable mushroom cultivation, the Continuing Education Department of the UAF offers a short course suited for farmers. Furthermore, the UAF’s Mushroom Lab can be contacted for guidance and information, and it can give proper suggestions and recommendations to those willing to invest in this lucrative business.

Source: The express tribune

Published on: 10/01/2012

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Mixing grapefruit with drugs is dangerous

The number of drugs when mixed with grapefruit that can lead to serious health problems, including sudden death, has skyrocketed, warns a Canadian researcher who first discovered the toxic link.
In an article in the Canadian Medical Association Journal, David Bailey, a scientist at the Lawson Health Research Institute in London, Ontario, said more than 85 drugs, many of them highly prescribed for common medical conditions, are known to interact with the pink fruit.
He first made the link 20 years ago.
But the number of medications with the potential to interact with grapefruit and cause serious adverse health effects has jumped from 17 to 43 in the last four years, as new drugs have been rolled out, Bailey said.
“How big a problem are such interactions? Unless health care professionals are aware of the possibility that the adverse event they are seeing might have an origin in the recent addition of grapefruit to the patient’s diet, it is very unlikely that they will investigate it,” Bailey said.
Generally patients don’t say they eat grapefruit and doctors don’t ask, he lamented in the article.
Grapefruit poses a risk when mixed with certain drugs because it inhibits an enzyme that metabolizes ingested drugs, resulting in the drugs entering the bloodstream at full force, which can lead to overdosing.
Some of the drugs known to interact with grapefruit include anti-cancer agents, heart drugs, pain medications and drugs to treat schizophrenia. All of them are administered orally.
It doesn’t take much grapefruit to have an effect. Drinking a single glass of grapefruit juice with medication can lead to serious side effects, including gastrointestinal bleeding, kidney failure, breathing problems and sudden death.
Other citrus fruits such as Seville oranges and limes can have similar effects. But they have been studied less.

Source: The News tribe
Published on: 11/28/2012

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Fruit and vegetables treated with pesticides can cause Parkinson's disease

Fruit and vegetables treated with pesticides can cause Parkinsons, say scientists from the German University Clinic Carl Gustav Carus. The researchers came to this conclusion after extensive testing with mice.
In Germany alone 400,000 people are suffering from Parkinsons disease. Scientists have now discovered that the insecticide rotenone doesn’t just cause the disease, but exacerbates the symptoms. Earlier, researchers confirmed the fact that Parkinsons can be triggered by outside influences. Already in an early stage, distinct correlations were found between Parkinsons and the use of pesticides. Scientific research involving subjects active in agriculture and farming, used to working with pesticides, showed that an above average percentage of the subjects suffered from the disease.
Staff at the University examined the responses of mice to rotenone. It was established that certain nerve cells in the intestines contained large doses of the protein alpha-synuclein. These in turn affected important brain cells. According to Francisco Pan-Montojo of the Dresden Institute for Anatomy the discovery is an important step forward in the understanding and possible treatment of Parkinsons.

Source: Fresh Plaza
Published on: 12/14/2012

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Garden Talk: The Sage Advice

By Zahra Nasir

Indigenous in all countries surrounding the Mediterranean, sage has been cultivated throughout Europe for hundreds of years. Zahra Nasir teaches gardening-buffs how to grow the herb in Pakistani soil

Well, ladies, make no bones about it, if you want to stand up and make a statement about who really rules the roost; simply plant sage in your garden. If your sage flourishes then this is an indelible sign to all and sundry that matriarchy prevails in your home. But on the other hand, if your sage withers and dies then quickly pull it out, hide it away, dispose it off quietly, for if someone finds out then everyone will know you have submitted to male domination albeit Taliban style or otherwise. Sage you see, is and has from ancient times, been considered a very female herb.

There are actually around 900 different kinds of sage, botanically known as ‘Salvias’. Sage is a member of the ‘Lamiaceae’ family of plants but the one we are talking about here is that good old medicinal and culinary herb ‘Salvia officinalis’ or ‘Common’ sage although there really isn’t anything at all common about its myriad properties.

Members of this huge genus are, except for a 100 or so, aromatic and can be annuals, biennials or perennials and can be evergreen or deciduous with, mostly, strong woody stems. The sage in question, with attractive velvety, silvery green, dare I say ‘sage green’ leaves which it may or, being awkward, may not hang on to all year round is a hardy perennial. Although its bare woody stems are not at all ornamental, its other properties more than make up for this with its spectacular spires of blue flowers in the spring proffering a splendid apology for anything it may have done to offend you.

Indigenous in all the countries surrounding the Mediterranean, including North Africa, sage has been widely cultivated throughout Europe for literally hundreds of years. It was introduced to North America sometime in the 1600s and was so venerated by the Chinese during the same period of history (should that be ‘her-story’ in this instance?) that they happily bartered three chests of top quality tea for a single chest of dried sage with European traders.

As its origins belie, this particular sage adores sunny, well drained positions in reasonably light, sandy soil although it will tolerate, my own plants are an example, much heavier, humus rich soil as long as it never ever gets water logged as this means almost instant death. Whilst sage is, or rather was, considered to have the ability to bring people back to life if one is to believe ancient Druid and Roman lore, sadly it cannot resurrect itself and when it decides to give up the ghost… it does!

Hippocrates, the ancestor of modern doctors and their Hippocratic oath, Dioscorides and Marcus Aurelius’ doctor by the name of Galen all promoted the use of sage for a wide variety of female illnesses and problems and, much later on, Pliny the Elder venerated it as a top notch herb for treating wounds and snake bites and its botanical name ‘Salvia’ is actually derived from the Latin word ‘Salvere’ which means to be in the best of health. Closer to home in a manner of speaking, in the Arab world, sage is considered to be brain food and was once prescribed for boosting intelligence.

Growing to a height of approximately three feet if it is happy, much less if it isn’t quite comfortable, sage is an astringent, antiseptic herb with a very strong and pleasing aroma. It has been found to relax spasms, prevent sweating, improve digestion, help with liver function and has anti-inflammatory and anti-depressant uses. Modern herbalists prescribe it, taken internally, for indigestion, liver problems, flatulence, to ease lactation and for a whole range of female problems as identified by the ancient Romans. Externally it is used for nasty insect bites, sore throats and mouths plus various skin infections.

Then of course it has numerous culinary uses too. The pungent leaves can be used in all sorts of meat, fish and poultry dishes, a Christmas turkey stuffed with sage and onion being a prime example. The leaves, fresh or dried, make an excellent herb tea or can be used for adding a delicious flavour to homemade cheese and, having told you all of the above I’m certain you, ladies in particular, would like to cultivate a few plants for home use.

The first thing you need is seed of course and I have found good quality German seed in the market here which has (at least mine did) a germination rate of about 90 per cent. I paid Rs. 80 per packet last April and ended up with four dozen healthy plants which, in my opinion, was a very good deal.

The hard black seed, almost round in shape, should be sown in pots or trays of good, well draining compost. About quarter of an inch deep is ideal. Place the pots/trays in a sunny location; keep them watered but not overly wet and the seeds should begin to germinate after 10 to 14 days. Don’t plant the seeds too close together, three inches apart all round is ideal, to allow the seedlings room to grow without having to endure competition from their neighbours. Once they have developed four to six healthy leaves, carefully transplant them into individual 10-inch pots or plant them out, one to two feet apart, directly in the garden. Those of you without an actual garden can keep them in pots which, in adverse weather conditions such as heavy rain, can be kept in a sheltered place.

As previously mentioned, this particular kind of sage is a perennial plant but, sadly, that doesn’t mean it lives forever. It should be pretty and productive for three to four years after which it will tend to get rather woody, have fewer leaves and not be so attractive therefore you should start a new batch off every couple of years or so. Once you have got an established sage plant it can easily be increased by taking cuttings during late spring or early autumn.

Now, the all-important climatic requirements. Sage the sun lover needs sunshine and dry growing conditions. If you happen to reside in Karachi then sow the seed during October or November and keep your fingers crossed that the plants produce lots of leaves before humidity creeps up during early summer as they may not like this at all. Keeping them on a sunny, covered veranda where dew/humidity don’t directly fall on them, will encourage them to survive the summer but it could be that you need to treat them as an annual plant. In Lahore, Rawalpindi and Islamabad, you can sow the seed either in September/October or during late February/March and, as humidity tends to be a little lower than in Karachi, the plants will have more chance of being perennial. In Quetta, Peshawar and cooler hilly regions seed should be sown during spring and, more than likely, the plants will be perfectly good perennials.

Indigenous species of wild sage are found almost all over Pakistan but, whilst perfectly useable, they are not quite as ‘strong’ as Salvia officinalis and neither are their flowers so eye-catching. A useful species, easily grown as an annual although it is really a biennial, is ‘Salvia sclarea’ or Clary sage, an equally useful herb with highly decorative purple, pink or white bracts, and whilst it is very different from ‘Salvia splendens’, the normal sock-you-in-the-eye garden variety which doesn’t have any of the medicinal or culinary merits mentioned above, it is a wonderful addition to anyone’s garden.

Sage, in any form, should not be taken internally for any length of time and not at all if you happen to be pregnant or suffer from epilepsy. Salvia officinalis has a high content of volatile oil of which up to 50 per cent is Thujone and in excess this is toxic. Do not concoct your own herbal remedies as this can be dangerous, please leave this to the experts.

Source: The Dawn Review

Published on: 10/23/2012

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UK scientists discover ripening control protein

Scientists at Leicester University in the UK have discovered a protein that ripens fruits early and could boost their value and sales dramatically.
The finding would enable farmers to accelerate or delay the ripening of entire fruits to prevent them falling victim to unseasonal weather.
The researchers have applied for a patent and are planning to test their discovery on tomatoes, bell peppers and citrus fruits.

They demonstrated for the first time that a regulatory system that governs how proteins are broken down in plant cells also affects chloroplasts – structures that control photosynthesis.

Using thale cress they showed that altering a particular gene could change the speed with which chloroplasts transform into other structures in plant cells, including those involved in the ripening of fruit.
Testing the mechanism on crop plants will prove whether it could one day be used commercially to ensure fruit always ripens at the right time, the researchers explain.
“We are already transferring the work into tomatoes. So I would think, within a year, we will know whether or not it is going to work in principle," project leader Paul Jarvis says.
"It is incredible to get to this point – it has been a long journey. We have known for some time that this was going to be a big breakthrough.”
Because the same regulatory system governs various other aspects of plant development, such as how quickly leaves age, it could also be used for other purposes such as keeping crops alive for longer periods, he says.

Source: Fresh Plaza
Published on: 11/23/2012

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Flowers: Adding Rainbow Colors To Landscape

By Adnan Younis, Dr. Atif Riaz and Dr. Muhammad Nadeem, Institute of Horticultural Sciences, University of Agriculture Faisalabad Pakistan

Annual flowers are non-woody plants that complete their life cycle in one season, ending with seed production. Annual flowering plants can be propagated through seeds, unlike many biennials and perennials. They are thus best suited to environments that have a short growing season. Annual flowers can play an imperative role in a well-designed landscape and are an excellent way to draw attention to building and home entrances, walkways and outdoor living spaces and to provide homeowners and visitors with pleasing welcome.

Selection of flowers for garden needs a careful attention and should be carried out on the basis of plant height, color of flowers, nature of growth, and type of environment they need. Typically, a flower border has the tallest plants in the back, medium height plants in the middle and short plants in the front. The style of the annual bed should be compatible with the overall style of your landscape design. Plantation can be done either in a formal or informal design, depending on the arrangement of the planting. In formal designs are made up of geometric lines and symmetry, with strong focal points that attract the eye. In contrast, informal designs have curved, flowing lines and natural forms, follow natural terrain and create an asymmetrical balance within the planting.

Before planting flowers, the physical characteristics of the site must be evaluated. Check the site's soil type, fertility status, drainage and its exposure to sun and wind. Compare site characteristics with specific plant requirements. An annual plant adapted to site conditions grows and flowers more vigorously and has fewer pest problems. Some plants intolerant of heat and sun may perform adequately when planted in part shade. Annual flowers offer flexibility in landscape design and planting can be changed each growing season, creating an entirely new design. As a part of their quick change potential, annuals are called “Temporary Visitors” of Garden.

Designing a garden with plants exhibiting many different colors requires some coordination and color schemes. Consider the color of the house and any other fixed structures such as fences or utility buildings. Pink flowers can be used against a brick walls with orange tones would not produce a pleasant combination. Mostly it is more recommended to use masses of a single color instead of mixing colors in flowering beds because a mass planting of a single color or planting in bands of colors will produce a stronger impact.

It is important to look location and how the flowers will be viewed from different angles. Bright colors stand out, while dark colors fade into the background. Bright colors catch attention to an area, so do not use red and yellow flowers near an eyesore or unattractive area. Bright colors seem closer, while dark colors make the area appear further away. White is the last color to fade from sight as darkness falls and thus is good for areas used at night.

About author: Dr. Adnan Younis is Assistant Professor in Floriculture & Landscape Horticulture at Institute of Horticultural Sciences, University of Agriculture Faisalabad Pakistan. He got his Ph.D degree frm UAF Pakistan and Post Doc from USA. He is very active in teaching, research, seminars, writing, landscaping and a lot of other activities at national and international level.

Contact: adnanyounis1976@yahoo.com

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Top 10 GMO Foods

 

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