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Sunday, December 16, 2012
Starting a Small Flock of Chickens
I have been giving the
following article—an overview of our approach to flock management—as the handout
for my poultry seminars for several years.
I am now writing a replacement
which will address the same issues, but will emphasize five areas: Pasturing the
flock (using electronet fencing), “putting the flock to work” in various
homestead endeavors, deep litter for best management of manure in the poultry
house, using natural mothers for incubating and brooding new stock, and feeding
issues. I will eventually post the new version on the site. ~February
2007
Getting Started
Chickens are the easiest of
all livestock to raise. Their needs for feed and shelter are easily met. The
eggs and meat you can get from a home flock will be superior to anything you can
buy. And a flock of chickens is an endless source of fascination for the whole
family. Give them a try!
Choosing a Breed
If your main interest in
chickens is egg production, you might choose one of the Mediterranean class
breeds - Leghorns, Golden or Silver Campines, Buttercups, Hamburgs, Blue
Andalusians, Minorcas, etc. These breeds tend to be somewhat smaller and lighter
in weight, as they put more of their resources into egg production rather than
larger frames and greater muscle mass. They usually lay white eggs. Some of
these breeds can a bit high-strung.
Meat breeds are typified by
the Cornish Cross, a very fast-growing hybrid with a broad, plump breast, easy
to dress out. These birds can be ready for slaughter at seven or eight weeks.
(If slaughtered at 12-14 weeks they produce excellent roasters.) Because they
grow so fast, they are not as vigorous or resilient as others, and easily expire
from episodes of sudden stress. [Some breeders in the "pastured poultry"
movement are trying to breed new broiler crosses especially for production on
pasture that are considerably more robust than the Cornish Cross. Typically,
such birds require a little longer grow-out than the Cornish; but exhibit better
vigor, none of the leg and heart problems of the Cornish, yet dress out with the
sort of plump, broad breast the market has come to expect.]
Many people prefer a
compromise between the meat and the egg "specialists": The dual-purpose breeds,
which lay well (usually brown shelled eggs) and grow fast enough to serve well
as table fowl (though they are not as broad breasted as the meat-production
hybrids). Birds of this type are ready for slaughter at about 12 or 13 weeks of
age. They are usually more gentle and easy-going than the Mediterranean group.
Among these breeds are New Hampshire and Rhode Island Reds, Barred Rocks, Buff
Orpingtons, Brahmas, Cochins, Wyandottes, and Ameraucanas (which lay
pastel-tinted eggs).
Usually the discussion of
breed choice ends here. However, I urge you to consider also the historic
breeds, such as the five-toed Dorkings, which originated in Rome before the time
of Julius Caesar. While not as productive as modern breeds, the historic breeds
have other virtues to recommend them. For example, Old English Games may not be
ready for slaughter until five months old and may lay only 200 eggs a year - but
they can virtually feed themselves if given enough space to forage; the hens are
devoted and fiercely protective mothers; and their meat was once the standard
against which all other table fowl were judged.
Sources for Stock
Just-hatched chicks can be
sent through the mail. Many people turn first to one of the mega-hatcheries such
as Murray McMurray. They feature large selections and illustrated catalogs. My
own preference is to seek out smaller, family owned regional hatcheries, which I
have found may provide more personalized service and superior
stock.
You can get both chicks and
started stock from the local farmers co-op, though the choice of breeds is very
limited. You can also connect with local enthusiasts who have stock to sell
through classified ads or a publication such as the Valley Trader.
Finally, of course, you can
breed your own. This may not be a realistic option if you're just starting out.
But at some time in the future, you may find that it is quite a thrill to "hatch
your own." You might try your luck with an artificial incubator. Or, if you're
lucky enough to have a broody hen, you can just "let mama do it."
Brooding
If you start with day-old
stock, you will have to be a surrogate mama to your baby chicks. Set up an
enclosed brooder which is free from drafts and protected from rodents, cats,
etc.; and which contains an absorbent litter such as wood shavings and a source
of heat such as a 250-watt lamp or two. The waterer should be designed so that
the chicks cannot wade into it and get wet. Temperature should be maintained so
that the chicks are neither huddling under the heat source, nor huddling in a
corner as far as possible from the heat. If they are scooting around the brooder
like a bunch of little water bugs, all is well. Frequent monitoring of the
brooder is the key to success.
Of course, if you have a
mother hen who is raising your new chicks, you don't have to worry about any of
this. When it comes to raising baby chickens, a mother hen is a lot smarter than
you.
Housing
Housing for chickens can be
extremely simple. If you already have an existing shed or outbuilding, it can
probably be modified to serve quite nicely. The fundamental requirements are
that the birds be protected from the wind or heavy drafts; and that they be
completely dry. Chickens have a strong instinct to roost; so will be more
content if furnished with some structure on which to roost.
It is important not to
overcrowd your birds. Allow a minimum of three square feet per bird, up to an
ideal five square feet or more. Of course, if the flock has constant access to
the outside, they will do fine with less space in their "sleeping quarters"
inside.
If you plan to build a new
structure in which to house your birds, I strongly recommend that you keep an
earth floor in the building, and cover it with a thick layer of high-carbon
litter such as oak leaves, wood shavings, etc. (I do not think straw is a good
litter material over earth floor, as it can support the growth of molds which
can be a respiratory problem for the birds.) The constant scratching of the
chickens incorporates the droppings into the litter, preventing the typical
"caking" of manure which results in foul odors, flies, and possible buildup of
pathogens. The constant mixing of the manure with the high-carbon litter results
in a decomposition process similar to that in a compost pile. The billions of
microorganisms driving this decomposition actually produce Vitamins K and B12,
various natural antibiotics, and other immune-enhancing substances which the
chickens ingest while scratching for and eating tiny critters in the litter. A
study in the Ohio state university system in the 1920's demonstrated that
chickens could obtain 100% of their protein from a mature 12-inch litter. You
can periodically (say once a year) remove the litter and use it as compost
without further processing.
If you have to use an existing
building with a wood floor, that's okay. Here, too, you should lay down a thick
layer of dry, high-carbon litter. (In this case, where the litter remains dry, a
straw litter is okay.) Your poultry house will be far more pleasant for you and
more healthful for the chickens. When you remove a mix of litter and manure from
a structure with a wooden floor, you should compost it before adding it to the
garden.
Whenever you notice a strong
odor of ammonia, especially upon opening the poultry house in the morning, it is
time either to clean out the litter, or add another layer of high-carbon
material.
Joel Salatin has observed
that, if allowed five square feet per bird, the chickens will continually turn
in all manure laid down. At four square feet, there will be some "capping" of
manure (accumulation of an impervious layer the birds cannot incorporate),
especially under the roosts. At three square feet, there can be capping over all
or most of the litter. If you find that the manure is building up in this way,
simply use a spading fork to turn over the capped areas in clumps. The chickens
will then be able to break up the clumps and work them into the
litter.
Whatever shelter you give your
birds should protect them from wind and sharp drafts; but at the same time
should allow for adequate ventilation. I installed solid outer doors and inner
frame doors with wire mesh. This configuration allows me to open up the house
completely to air flow, while still keeping the birds confined and protected
when desired. Also, the birds are able to sun themselves in the direct sunlight
coming through the mesh doors and windows at various times during the
day.
Please note that, if their
shelter is tight and dry, chickens are very cold hardy. It is not necessary to
provide artificial heat; and it could be detrimental to do so. [Occasionally
single-comb cocks will get some frostbite on combs or wattles. If this becomes a
serious problem, you could keep breeds with rose or pea combs
instead.]
You will of course design your
housing with predator protection (especially at night) in mind. But don't
anticipate threats like dogs, raccoons, and foxes only - a least weasel can get
through any opening large enough for a rat! (I once lost 19 young chickens to a
least weasel!) And speaking of rats: Remember that they can be a serious threat
to chicks. Half-inch hardware cloth is a great thing!
Feeding
Commercial poultry feed
contains products from rendering plants, reprocessed deep-frying oil, feather
meal, and other low quality ingredients which can be quite stale by the time it
is fed. For these reasons I prefer to grind my own feed every few days, using
certified organic ingredients I buy from Countryside Natural Products near
Staunton. Making your own feed may not be a realistic option for you.
Countryside also offers premixed versions of the feeds I make, in 50-lb. bags.
Fortunately, they are now delivering once a month into the Northern Virginia
area. Call them at 888-699-7088 for more information about products and
deliveries, or visit Countryside Natural Products.
However, if local commercial
feed is the only realistic alternative for you, by all means use it. If your
birds have access to pasture, your eggs and dressed poultry will still be
superior to any you can buy. If you do use commercial feeds, keep a couple of
precautions in mind. Chickens are appropriately fed different mixes at different
stages of growth, varying especially with regard to proportions of protein and
of minerals, particularly calcium. It is important to feed your birds
appropriate to their stage of growth. However, you should strictly avoid feeding
chicks a chick formula containing antibiotics. Feeding such medications as a
steady part of the diet is completely unnecessary in a small batch of chicks not
stressed by crowding such as yours; and excessive use of antibiotics in our food
supply has serious long-term implications for both animal and human health. If
you cannot get an antibiotic-free starter mix (such as Countryside's), I suggest
starting your chicks on the next stage formula ("grower mix" or "pullet
developer") instead, perhaps supplementing with a little fish meal to boost the
protein.
When using commercial feeds,
you can also add a little kelp (dried seaweed) meal, an excellent natural
all-round mineral supplement.
Whatever you feed, always make
sure your birds have daily access to some green forage. When they are confined
to the winter housing, you can dig dandelion and yellow dock up by the roots and
throw them to the flock - the tops stay green much longer than other forage
plants, and they are very palatable and highly nutritious to poultry. If you
have a greenhouse, set aside a little space for greens (assorted grains,
mustards, kale, rape, and other cold-hardy greens are good candidates) for the
birds. Or sprout some of those same seeds and expose them to sunlight long
enough for them to green up, then toss them to the flock. Remember, you don't
need to feed a lot of green forage - even small amounts are highly
beneficial.
You should also feed the flock
grit (small bits of stone and gravel, which they need for grinding their feed in
the gizzard) and, in the case of layers, crushed oyster shell as a calcium
supplement. These amendments are not so important for birds on pasture, since
they are able to pick up what they need on their own. I usually offer them
anyway, since it is easy to do so and they are cheap; but they should always be
provided (free-choice) to birds confined to the winter housing. Grit and shell
are available at any farm co-op or feed supply.
Watering
Chickens must have fresh water
available at all times. Waterers come in a number of designs. Choose a type
which minimizes the surface area exposed, so the water will remain as clean and
litter-free as possible. Placing it above floor level on a stand will also help
minimize contamination with litter. Guard against wet spots under or around the
waterer. (Pathogens are more likely to grow in wet than in dry litter.) If wet
spots do develop, use a spading fork to scatter the wet material so it can dry
as the chickens work it into the rest of the litter.
I recommend some form of
automated watering, which saves a significant amount of time and effort even in
a small flock. There are various designs of vacuum-flow and float-activated
waterers. The most sanitary of all watering systems is the nipple
waterer.
Of course, watering becomes a
greater challenge during freezing winter weather. If electricity is available in
the poultry house, there are various heating devices that can be used. Carrying
the waterer into the basement at night is also an option.
Eggs
Be sure to provide sufficient
nest boxes (maybe one for each seven to nine hens or so) positioned above floor
level; keep them lined with plenty of clean straw; and collect eggs frequently.
All these measures help keep the eggs clean and unbroken, and reduce the
likelihood of egg eating, a bad habit which - once established - is difficult to
break.
I prefer not to wash eggs if
they come perfectly clean from the nest. (They actually keep better if not
washed.) If they have even the slightest trace of litter or - yes, occasionally
- poop, I wash them with a half and half solution of water and vinegar, which
dissolves the smear and has a sanitizing effect.
Fresh eggs do not need to be
refrigerated if eaten within a few days. Just set them out of direct sunlight
where it is not too warm. (Remember, in nature the mother bird doesn't
refrigerate her eggs. They remain perfectly viable for up to two weeks as she
day by day assembles her clutch before starting incubation.)
©Unless otherwise noted, all material on this site, both text and photos, is copyright by Harvey and Ellen Ussery, 2005 to the present. Individuals may copy and circulate it freely under the following conditions: This site www.TheModernHomestead.US must be attributed as the source; any material copied must include this copyright notice; and no charge may be made if you pass copies on to others, other than the actual costs of copying, if any. No material on this site may be published in any print or electronic media, whether or not for profit, without written permission of Harvey or Ellen Ussery.
DISCLAIMER: Information offered on this website is based on decades of research and practical experience. However, we are not trained professionals in any health, environmental, or other field. We therefore do not offer the contents of this website as advice or recommendation for any specific practice; nor will we be responsible for the consequences of the application of any information or ideas presented on this site. ~Harvey and Ellen Ussery
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